I can kind of see why. After pulling the trim off the passenger side it revealed that the wiring has missed the channel allocated for it and been glued below it by the trim adhesive.
The result is that the wiring was too short to go around a corner and was pulled tight across an edge of metal.
The purple/white wire is the door switch wire for the interior light. The metal is sharp where the wires drape over the top.
It would not have been too long before the interior light was doomed to flicker on and off of it's own free will.
The cover panels have been re-fitted to the firewall. The remaining hole is for the heater wire cable gland.
12 Volt battery mounted.
With battery. The battery is very secure - surrounded by rubber. The packing strap may be enough to hold it in. You can see the red rubber to the right of the battery with a 10mm hole ready to finally secure the top battery tray. I am using a 9 AH AGM deep cycle battery. No real reason for the deep cycle other than it was easy to get.
The red cable draped around the area in all the engine bay pictures is the BMS monitoring wire that comes from the boot.
This is the 12 VDC to 240 VAC inverter that runs the motor fan. (They could not supply a 12 VDC version way back when I ordered the motor.)
The inverter is mounted where the old ignition coil used to live.
I used two peices of aluminium angle that were offcuts from the rear battery tray and ran a peice of 2 mm aluminium over the top. The inverter sits on a piece of black neoprene rubber with another small strip under the aluminium that loops over the top.
Another minor problem solved. When I opened any door to the wind-stop position then closed the door again it made a sound like a gunshot. The door wind-stop rivets had to be drilled out when the car was re-painted and the bolts that they were replaced with were too loose. I reemed them out to 7.1 mm and fitted uncompressed stainless steel rivnuts (nutserts). A nice clean close now with almost no sound.
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