Rotor in, Motor in

I have re-installed the rotor back in the motor, fitted the shaft encoder and re-fitted my IP65 spray can lid. The only silicone I had was the high temperature stuff that I used on the heater core. That worked nicely.

I'm glad border adhesive is useful for something (weight). After the huge trouble we had stripping it off my daughter's bedroom wall we swore we would never use it again.

Since I had to wait a day for the silicone to set, I turned my attention to the chargers and controller tray. I am going to drill out all the 4mm holes and use M4 rivnuts so that I can get stuff off the tray without having to remove it (the tray). I ran out and bought a 6mm cobolt drill (for stainless steel - it works really well) and tried to use a manual method to insert the rivnut - no good. I'll take the tray to work and see if I can use the tool there. So the tray is in the boot of the Super Snipe.

The blue circles are some of the 4mm holes - the red is a 6mm hole I have drilled out.
The DC-DC block (still on tray) is another matter. It's held on with M6 bolts through the bottom from inside the case (nuts underneath). It isn't impossible to get off without removing the tray - just difficult.




As of Sunday afternoon, the motor is back in the car.
It took me and William about an hour of messing around with a jemmy bar and many blocks of wood to get the rear of the motor to a height where I could get the Jack under it. From there it was relatively easy.

I have about half the chargers (six) left to modify. I have to change the current shunts in all the chargers to finalize my modifications for two current settings - 3A and 180mA. I have ordered some shunt wire but it's not due for a week or so. I can still finish installing the controller tray since the rivnuts will allow me to install the chargers afterwards.

Daughter board for current switching shown circled.

My two spare chargers (where I tested this modification) didn't need the shunts changed - they were 12 milliohm. The twelve chargers in the car appear to have anything from 6 to 9 milliohm shunts which makes the low current setting too high - hence the shunt change.

The modification allows the charger to charge at 3 Amps then, when the current drops to less than 300mA, the charger switches to 180mA Constant Current - which is the value that the rudman regulators (cell bypass resistors) in my packs are set. It'll means that charging the car is a set and forget operation - which is as it should be.